Save The Bee Beer Soap

Recently, Oakshire Brewing Company made a special Save the Bee beer for us. While the beer is delicious to drink, the soap makers among us got other ideas. We decided to whip up a batch of Save the Bee beer soap!

Why Beer Soap?

  • Hops contain skin softening amino acids
  • Adds foamy, creamy bubbles
  • Can help clear up skin

How To Do It:

Use your favorite cold process soap recipe, and substitute beer for the water in the recipe! It’s just that simple, although there are a couple of guidelines to follow:

  • Use a lye mixing container with plenty of extra room, as the beer may foam up when the lye is added. As an extra precaution, place the mixing container in a stainless steel sink, just in case.
  • Some soapmakers boil their beer first or make ice cubes out of it before adding the lye. We just let ours go flat in the fridge overnight. Be sure to use chilled beer, as adding lye to beer can cause it to overheat and burn.

Safety note: Before proceeding, make sure you are FULLY educated in using lye and making cold process soap, take all safety precautions and use protective equipment, and keep lye FAR away from children.

Grilled Habanero Honey Pineapple

Happy first day of summer - time to pull out the grill for cookouts and outdoor entertaining! While the grill is fired up, throw on some pineapple for a unique dessert to serve with vanilla ice cream or yogurt. The habanero honey adds a touch of heat that complements the sweetness beautifully.

Grilled Habanero Pineapple with Honey JarINGREDIENTS

1 pineapple, trimmed and peeled
¼ Cup GloryBee Habanero Honey, slightly heated
1/8 Cup lime juice
2-3 Tbsp Aunt Patty’s Organic Coconut Sugar

DIRECTIONS

      1. Slice peeled pineapple into rings ½ inch thick.

 

      1. Whisk lime juice with slightly heated honey and coat pineapple rings. Let marinate for about 30 minutes for maximum flavor.

 

      1. Turn grill to medium heat, place pineapple rings on the heated grill and cook 5-7 minutes on each side, or until slight char marks appear.

 

    1. Sprinkle each ring with coconut sugar before removing from heat. Serve warm.

Stacked for Sweetness – Adding A Honey Super

Replacing Hive CoverTo Swarm Or Not To Swarm

Tim got his package of live honey bees, placed them in the single deep brood box and couldn’t wait to get his hands on that delicious honey he knew would be waiting for him at the end of summer. Little did he know, his bees got so over-crowded that a large group split off from the colony and swarmed after two months. This left behind a now smaller and weaker colony. 

Had Tim been practicing proper hive management, he could have added an additional brood box and prevented the swarm’s departure, but he was new to beekeeping and confidently thought the bees would thrive without any attention on his part.

Honey Stores

At summer’s end, Tim was a bit disappointed at the amount of honey he got from the ten deep frames, but boy did it taste good. He made sure he got every ounce of honey from his bees, so he didn’t feel like they were a waste of his hard-earned money. He thought he would winter his bees and hopefully they would produce more honey the following summer. 

Well, as you probably guessed, Tim’s bees didn’t make it through the winter without their stores of honey to carry them through. Whether you are a first time or experienced beekeeper, you will need to know when to add a honey super in the spring or summer. By adding a honey super, you give the bees the room they need to expand and collect honey without feeling the need to swarm.

Make More Room

Bees need enough honey to make it through the winter, but with adequate flowering plants and proper beekeeping practices, they are able to produce an excess of that amount – and this is the honey that we take to sell or share with our family and friends.

If the bees have enough stores of honey to survive through the winter, you will have achieved success as a beekeeper. In many areas of the country, the amount of honey required to make it through winter is two deep brood boxes for honey and brood. Your bees may require a little more or less, but it is always preferable to have more honey in the brood chamber than less.

When to Add a Honey Super

During the spring build-up you can lift the back of your hive to gauge how full it is. Keep in mind that brood boxes contain brood, which is lighter than honey. When you reach the point of having two brood chambers mostly full of honey and brood, you will want to give the bees more space to add extra stores of honey. You will know it’s time to add a honey super when your bees have filled the brood boxes and are covering the center of six or seven frames of the next box.

No Queens Allowed

After determining that you need to add a honey super, you will need to decide if you want to use a queen excluder. Some beekeepers use a queen excluder between the brood box and the honey super to keep the queen laying down below. Other beekeepers rely on the “honey barrier” which is naturally created in a hive, and usually keeps the queen laying down below in the brood chamber. It will be your decision whether or not to use a queen excluder.

Pay Attention

Once the honey flow begins, there can be a rapid buildup of honey, so we suggest monitoring closely and adding more honey supers in advance of when they are actually needed. It is better to give your bees more room than less during the honey flow. How high you go with honey supers depends on how strong your bees are going into the nectar flow and also on the nectar availability of the season. If it is too hot and dry or too wet and damp for the bees to fly, this will affect the amount of nectar coming in.

Some aspects of beekeeping are within your control, like adding honey supers to make more room, or leaving enough honey stores in the hive. Other elements are out of your hands, like the weather during a particular year. With a bumper crop of honey comes many smiles, so keep your bees healthy all year long, and if the weather cooperates you will have extra honey supers to harvest in late summer.

Pre-Shave Oil (Perfect for Father’s Day)

Father's Day is just around the corner and what better way to tell dad you love him than with a homemade gift that he can use every day? This pre-shave oil will help improve the quality of shave and result in a smoother face.

What is pre-shave oil? It’s a soothing layer of protection to add to your skin prior to shaving. This recipe contains oils that calm and protect the skin as well as soften coarse facial hair in order to prevent irritation and inflammation caused by a razor.

INGREDIENTS

½ Cup Aunt Patty’s Castor Oil
½ Cup Aunt Patty’s Sweet Almond Oil
½ Cup Aunt Patty’s Avocado Oil
25 drops GloryBee Eucalyptus Essential Oil, or more if desired

INSTRUCTIONS 

  • Mix all ingredients and pour into bottle for storage.

To Use:

  • Apply a towel soaked in hot water (not so hot you burn yourself!) to your face and leave for about 20 seconds.
  • Put a few drops of shaving oil on the palm of your hands and rub hands together to warm oil slightly. Apply to areas to be shaved.
  • Wait a minute (a good time to wash your hands) and then shave with your normal soap or shaving cream.
  • Enjoy your comfortable shave and smooth face!

How Can You Help Save The Bee?

The humble honey bee is responsible for pollinating our fruits, nuts, vegetables and coffee. Without them, our diets would look very different, and so much less healthy! Sadly, the USDA recently reported that US beekeepers lost 44% of their hives in the winter of 2015-2016. This is an unsustainable loss for the bees, the beekeepers, and our communities.

Sometimes we feel very small in the face of a very big problem. But in this case there are a few things you can do to help:

  • Plant a pollinator garden.
  • Support Organic agriculture for bee pollinated crops.
  • Eliminate pesticide use on your property and at your place of work.
  • Become a beekeeper!
  • Donate to Save the Bee, and support honey bee research and beekeeper education.

One of our biggest partnerships this year is with a company you may have heard of - Dave’s Killer Bread. They are helping to take our Save the Bee social initiative to the next level and bringing national awareness to the issues plaguing honey bees.

By purchasing specially marked loaves of DKB Honey Oats & Flax bread, you will be helping Save the Bee... plus you can enter to win some great prizes, including a $350 Visa gift card!

Small Hive Beetle Warning

There's a new pest in town, and it’s not here to make friends with your honey bees. The Small Hive Beetle (SHB) is an invasive and damaging pest of honey bee colonies that was introduced by accident in the early 1990s from South Africa. For the past 25 years, they have been disrupting honey bee hives and causing damage to the comb and honey, rendering all affected honey harvests unfit for human consumption. In severe SHB invasion cases, the queen may even stop laying eggs, causing the colony to abscond.

Recently SHB infestations have been reported in Oregon and the OSU Honey Bee Lab has released an excellent article via the OSU extension service.

"Adult SHB beetles have tough, sting-resistant elytra (modified hard front wings), which make it difficult for honey bees to mount an effective defense. The compact body of the beetles and their ability to seek shelter in hive cracks and crevices make it nearly impossible for the adult bees to evict them from the hive. Honey bees attempt to manage beetle populations in the colonies by creating confinement areas using propolis, not allowing beetles to move out of their hiding locations (cracks and crevices in the hive) to feed. Interestingly, it has also been documented that some beetles are able to trick bees into feeding them by begging.

In small colonies such as divides or splits, newly hived packages, nucleus hives (nucs), or post-swarm colonies, the SHB population can grow rapidly, beyond the colony’s ability to keep it in check. Divides or splits are hives that were established by transferring frames of bees, brood, and food stores from a big or strong parent hive. A nuc or nucleus hive is a small hive consisting of five or six frames. Other factors that appear to exacerbate infestation include too-frequent hive inspections by beekeepers, declines in colony health, and a queen event (loss of queen or supersedure). In colonies having excessive space (multiple empty honey supers) or colonies that have recently swarmed, beetles can lay eggs away from the active bee population and thrive."

Read more about this invasive species and how detect, protect and prevent invasions of SHB in your hives by clicking here.

If you suspect you have small hive beetles or would like to prevent these nasty critters from invading your hive, we sell a Beetle Blaster which has given good results for our customers. Click here to purchase the beetle blaster.

 

In addition, please report all potential sightings to the OSU Honey Bee lab.
The OSU Honey BEE Lab
Oregon Master Beekeeper Program
4017 ALS Building, Corvallis, OR 97331
Phone: 541-737-1447
www.OregonMasterBeekeeper.com

Sunscreen Sticks

The beautiful summer sun is something we all look forward to all year round, but it can burn and prematurely age your skin if you don't provide it with the proper protection. All of the ingredients in this homemade sunscreen recipe provide some level of sun protection. This recipe in particular can be used just as you would an SPF 30 product.

EQUIPMENT

Double Boiler (or mixing bowl over saucepan)
Wooden Spoon (for mixing)
Large Round Roll-Up Tubes (for storage)

INGREDIENTS

1 Cup Aunt Patty’s Organic Virgin Coconut Oil
1 Cup GloryBee Organic Shea Butter
1 Cup GloryBee Beeswax
A few drops GloryBee Vitamin E Oil, to preserve
A few drops GloryBee Vanilla Fragrance Oil, for scent
2 Tbsp (or more) of non-nano zinc oxide

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Combine all ingredients (except zinc oxide and essential oil) in a double boiler or a glass bowl over a smaller saucepan with 1 inch of water in it.
  2. Turn the burner on and bring water to a boil. Stir ingredients constantly until they are melted and smooth. Remove from heat and add the zinc oxide powder and essential oils.
  3. Gently stir by hand until essential oils are incorporated.
  4. Carefully pour into Large Round Roll-Up Tube. Allow to cool completely before attempting to roll up product.

Store at room temperature or in the fridge or freezer for longer term storage. Keep below 80° F or they will melt! Adjust coverage to your needs and be careful not to burn while determining how long you can spend in the sun with this product.

Fruit Salad with Honey-Yogurt Dressing

This refreshingly sweet and crunchy fruit salad with a delicious yogurt dressing is perfect for summer picnics or barbecues. Sprinkle with poppy seeds, coconut flakes or candied pecans for more texture and added sweetness, or place on a bed of baby spinach for a greener salad. Pack in lunch boxes with fruit and dressing layered in a plastic cup, parfait style, and sprinkle with walnuts.

INGREDIENTS

½ Cup plain yogurt
2 Tbsp Aunt Patty’s Canola Oil
2 Tbsp GloryBee Organic Non-GMO Clover Blossom Honey
1 Tbsp Aunt Patty’s Organic Apple Cider Vinegar
½ tsp Dijon mustard
½ tsp Aunt Patty’s Organic Tamarind Paste
¼ tsp kosher salt
1 Cup walnut halves
4 Cups red seedless grapes, sliced in half (about 2 pounds)
2 Cups apples, cored and chopped (about 2 apples)
1 Cup celery, sliced (about 4-5 stalks)

DIRECTIONS

  1. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together yogurt, oil, honey, vinegar, mustard, tamarind paste and salt until smooth.
  2. With a rubber spatula, gently fold in walnuts, apples, celery and grapes.
  3. Serve cold and enjoy! Keep refrigerated.

Huge Thanks to our 2015 Save The Bee Partners

Our Save the Bee initiative was launched in 2012 to help save our favorite pollinators. Over the past 4 years, many other individuals and businesses in our community have recognized the need to join the cause. We want to thank all of our supporters who have taken the time to recognize the importance of honey bees and contribute to fund research at the OSU Honey Bee Lab.

Many, many thanks to our 2015 Save the Bee partners:

Coconut Bliss

Cupcake Royale

Organically Grown Company

Umpqua Bank

SnoTemp Cold Storage

Adam R Schulz, Attorney & Counselor at Law

Ellie Mae’s Cupcakes and CupPies

Oakshire Brewing Company

Lochmead Dairy

Country Village Nutrition Shoppe and Café

Bakery Nouveau

Three Bears Alaska

Sisters Baking Company

Sunny Farms

Sherm’s Food 4 Less

Chuck’s Produce

Minglement

Central Co-Op

Shop N Kart

Coos Head Food Co-Op

Farmer’s Market

Grower’s Outlet

Norman’s Farmer’s Market

Town & Country

Bailey’s Health Food Center

Market of Choice

Food Front

Attune Foods

Bread Garden

Noisette Pastry Kitchen

Growler Guys

Hot Cakes Molten Chocolate Cakery

Red Wagon Creamery

Aggressive Bee-havior And How To Prevent It

Celebrate the joys of beekeeping. There is nothing quite like having your bees buzzing happily about their business as you perform your routine hive inspections. Beekeeping is rewarding, entertaining and can even be considered downright relaxing – but then then the unthinkable happens. Those once calm and sweet bees turn into angry, aggressive attackers. This abrupt change of mood and demeanor in your bees can not only be frustratingly perplexing, it can suck the joy out of working with your bees if it persists long enough.

So what makes honey bees act aggressively?

beekeeper-got-stung

    1. Size matters: As colonies of bees grow in numbers, they need more and more pollen and nectar to make it through the winter. Each additional bee means all the other bees get that much less. As late summer rolls around, it is not uncommon for bees to become a little more aggressive as they get protective of their honey. More bees means more to deal with for the beekeeper – be gentle and try not to rile them up with harsh, abrupt movements.

 

    1. Where’s the queen?: Bees without a queen can be quite erratic and hostile. If your hive becomes queenless and you can get a replacement queen in time, the colony should become calmer.

 

    1. There’s a new queen in town: Hives that have had a recent supersedure, or a hive that has a new queen addition, may find that the new queen is of a different, more easily agitated disposition. It’s all about genetics – some queens are calm and create gentle brood; some queens are mean and create aggressive brood. It’s not unheard of for beekeepers to destroy mean queens and replace them with new gentler ones.

 

    1. I’ve been robbed!: When there is a shortage of nectar, bees will go anywhere to find some, even if that means going into a hive that is not their own and stealing it. This behavior is known as robbing and can create a violent cycle of honey bee aggression.

 

  • The robbing bees are aggressive because their own colony is in need and they are in survival mode.
  • The bees being robbed become aggressive because their hard-earned stores of honey are being robbed.
  • If you look at the hive’s entrance and see bees circling aggressively around the landing board before landing, and notice bees fighting with each other, your hive is likely dealing with robbers.
  • You may notice dead bees outside your hive, either your bees or the robber bees that died during the fight for the honey inside the hive. These bee carcasses can attract yellow jackets and wasps, which in turn will make your bees even more aggressive.
  1. Sound the alarm: Guard bees alert the colony of danger with an alarm pheromone, a smell which not only warns honey bees of trouble, but makes them aggressive. Once the alarm pheromone is released, they are ready to fight off any and all potential threats. If you get stung, even if it doesn’t penetrate your bee suit, the pheromone can still linger on your clothing. This may cause your bees to go into “attack mode” when you’re nearby because of the alarm pheromone on your bee suit. Washing your protective bee clothing may help by getting rid of the alarm pheromone on them.

Most bee behavior is cyclical and as beekeepers get more experienced, they learn to predict how their bees will behave and can make necessary adjustments before their bees become aggressive. Bee Proactive!

Homemade Laundry Soap

Making your own laundry soap at home can be cost-effective without sacrificing cleaning power! We posted last week about a homemade coconut oil laundry bar recipe, which you can grate and combine with a few other ingredients to create a gentle and mild, yet deep cleaning laundry soap.

EQUIPMENT

Cheese Grater
Mixing Bowl
Gloves
Airtight Container (for storage)

INGREDIENTS

1 Laundry Bar (Zote Soap, Fels Naptha, or make your own)
3 Cups Borax
3 Cups Washing Soda (to make your own washing soda, use 3 Cups Baking Soda and see Step 2 below)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Grate laundry bar with a cheese grater.

2. If you do not have washing soda on hand, spread baking soda onto cookie sheet and bake at 400° F for 15 minutes to transform into washing soda.

3. Mix laundry bar shreds, washing soda and borax in a large bowl gently by hand. Be sure to wear gloves, as they can dry out your skin

4. Use 1/8 cup of soap per load of laundry.

Top 4 Most Harmful Insecticides For Honey Bees

Flowers and honey bees have a mutually beneficial relationship, which helps sustain our flora as well as support the health of honey bees and their hives. As gardens begin to blossom in the spring and into summer, this symbiotic relationship begins and, in turn, creates bee-autiful blooms and nutritious food for us to eat. Treating and caring for your plants is essential in gardening and farming in order to keep other pesky insects and pests from eating your vegetables and flowers.

Sometimes using a toxic chemical is unavoidable, and in that case I hope you or your landscaper will opt for one that is not on the toxic list. Highly toxic pesticides and insecticides with residual toxicity longer than 8 hours are responsible for most of the bee poisoning incidents reported on the West Coast, primarily those in the following chemical families:

  • Organophosphates (such as acephate, azinphosmethyl, chlorpyrifos, diazinon, dimethoate, malathion, and methamidophos)
  • N-methyl carbamates (such as carbaryl)
  • Neonicotinoids (such as clothianidin, imidacloprid, and thiamethoxam)
  • Pyrethroids (such as deltamethrin, cyfluthrin and lambda-cyhalothrin).

There are plenty of options for non-harmful chemicals. Essential oils, vinegars, and co-planting are just a few. To learn more check out this excellent link from the Northwest Center for Alternatives to Pesticides.